Atlanta
I lived in Atlanta for 25 years and think of it as my hometown. And here’s what I tell folks: it’s not the best place to visit but it’s an amazing place to live. I say it’s not a great place to visit because most out of towners are directed to a few places that I think don’t tell the best story about Atlanta. Midtown and Buckhead are fine places but also give the appearance of a city that lacks depth. So what you’ll find below is a collection of places that I think best represent Atlanta.
What you need to know before you go
To prepare yourself for the trip, I highly recommend watching the The Layover: Atlanta from Anthony Bourdain. Few travel guides I’ve seen or read capture Atlanta quite as well as this show does.
Also note that that there are “two” Atlantas: OTP and ITP. OTP stands for “outside the perimeter” referring to I-285, the highway that forms a ring around Atlanta. OTP is generally considered the suburbs (where I grew up in Gwinnett County). OTP has a lot to offer especially up GA 400 to Roswell, Alpharetta, Johns Creek, etc, etc. But if I’m being honest, I didn’t spend a whole of time up there so I may be of limited help.
Most of what you’ll ready below is about ITP (“inside the perimeter”). I went to college at Georgia Tech (a very, very different place today than what it was 26 years ago when I started) and lived off Cheshire Bridge and in Kirkwood on the east side.
If you’re in town during baseball season, the Braves play in Cobb County which is not Atlanta :)
Where to stay
Most people who come to ATL stay in Buckhead, the affluent business district of Atlanta. I’m sure it’s a fine place to stay but you’re missing out on so much if you do. Below is a collection of neighborhoods and places I’ve stayed when in town that I think do a better job reflecting the culture of Atlanta.
I would also avoid staying in Downtown because after about 4pm the place turns into a graveyard.
Decatur - largely a residential neighborhood, Decatur has a lively town square with more than a few excellent places to eat and drink. Find a hotel or Airbnb near Decatur Square. MARTA also has a stop here that’s about 10 minutes from downtown. You can take the train down to Five Points station to head north to Buckhead or out of the city
Midtown - Midtown ain’t exactly my vibe but it’s close to a lot of things, sits very close to several MARTA stops, and is super walkable.
Anywhere near the Beltline (Inman Park / Old Fourth Ward / Ponce City Market) - I mention the Beltline below but any Airbnb or hotel that’s close to the beltline will open up a range of possibilities for you. My family and I recently stayed at this Airbnb in Inman Park behind Krog Street Market and we loved it. Super accessible with lots of food and drink options super close by.
What to eat
Here’s my collection of go to restaurants when we lived in ATL. I still frequent most of these when I’m in town.
Eat at Waffle House after midnight at least once. The people watching is amazing.
Taqueria del Sol and get the cheese dip (my wife and I love to call it Taqueria del Closed because their hours seemed to change weekly)
Empire State South Hugh Acheson helped create the “new wave” of southern restaurants 10-15 years ago. ESS is one of the OGs of that movement.
Victory sandwich for cheap sandwiches and ping pong in Inman park (they also have a Decatur location that, sadly, does not have a ping pong table)
Tiny Lou's a (above the clermont lounge) for a nice dinner
Iberian Pig for an Old Fashioned and some Tapas
Nuevo Laredo on the westside and get anything with Brisket
Anna’s BBQ in Kirkwood. If you come to ATL and don’t eat BBQ at least once, what are you even doing? Anna’s is definitely not the most well known spot in ATL but I used to live in the neighborhood so it has a place near and dear to me.
Brick store pub in Decatur for one of the best beer selections on earth
Get the nachos at Superica at Krog Street Market. Parking at Krog Street is a cluster so do your best to walk there via the Beltline
Get a miller high life and a shot at Lloyd's on Dekalb Avenue
Home Grown on Memorial Drive. Get the Grant’s stack for breakfast.
El Tesoro in Edgewood. Located in the middle of a neighborhood, you might be scratching your head when you navigate to this place. But it has a huge open air patio and a really innovative collection of tacos to choose from. (Website)
I have been a huge fan of Leon’s in Decatur ever since they opened. Their menu is always rotating but you can’t go wrong with much here.
Remember when “farm to table” was all the rage? Miller Union helped introduce Atlanta to the concept. It’s been around for ages and rarely disappoints. (Website)
Places that I’ve heard are great but I’ve never personally been to (so if they suck, don’t blame me)
Kinship is apparently new and a good butcher shop / coffee shop in the Virginia Highland neighborhood
Little Bear in Summerhill
Mujo. A japanese restaurant from the same family known for Spanish and Italian? YES. I’ve never been but the Castelluccis never disappoint. (Website)
The Betty. All I know about it is that it is supposed to be great and that it is in Buckhead (Website)
Mount Royal. Owned by the same chef as Empire State South (Hugh Acheson), Mount Royal also has a rooftop bar that is supposed to be pretty great. (Website)
There are many others that I just can’t put in here. Eater has always been a super reliable source for restaurant recommendations so I would also check out their list of new restaurants (March 2022).
Where to get coffee
I now live in Seattle, land of coffee. So this means I’ve developed at least somewhat of an appreciation for good coffee. Here are a few go to spots
Muchacho. Also has great diner mugs you can buy. Located off Memorial Drive.
Dancing Goats Coffee Bar. There are a few sprinkled around the city — Ponce City Market, Decatur are the two that spring to mind
My favorite dive bars
Moe's and Joe's in Virginia Highland
The Rusty Nail on Buford Highway. Imagine a shitty bar that hasn’t really changed in 40 years. That’s the Rusty Nail. If you can’t find it, look for the 20’ smoking gun / smoker in the parking lot.
Elliott Street Deli and Pub. If you find yourself in downtown for some reason, grab a beer and a sandwich at this amazing little shit hole.
Northside Tavern. Located off Howell Mill in what used to be a super industrial (and neglected) part of town, Northside Tavern is now located amongst the townhomes and upscale apartments and all of the things that represent Gentrification.
Thinking Man Tavern. About a 10 minute walk from Decatur
What to do
Go to the Clermont lounge on a week night (weekends it kinda turns into a douchebag carnival). Anthony Bourdain did an episode of his show The Layover there and it is epic.
Krog Street Market
Buford Highway for all things ethnic cuisine in ATL. Buford Hwy extends for miles from just outside of Atlanta to capture the Latin and Asian food influences of Atlanta.
Ponce City Market
Civil Rights Museum
Georgia Aquarium
Walk the Beltline. The beltline is a 20 miles (ish) ring around the city that took an abandoned rail line and repurposed it to be a walking / biking trail. Similar to the Highline in NY, the beltline has seen a flurry of new breweries, restaurants, and apartments pop up on its edges. I prefer the leg of the beltline that connects Old Fourth Ward (Krog Street Market) with Virginia Highland (Ponce City Market). There are little dozens of places to eat and drink along the route.
Go up to a native Atlanta and ask them how long they’ve lived in “Hotlanta”. Hahaha just kidding don’t do that.